Whitney Lake ROad tRIP
Discover Northwest Nebraska’s Whitney Lake Tour takes adventurers to a Northwest Nebraska destination that’s not just an area with significant Native American history, but a favorite for anglers looking to spend a day at the lake. This trip is about 34 miles long from its origin just west of Chadron.
The tour includes stops at The Council Tree, where the U.S. government met with the Lakota to discuss the sale of the Black Hills in 1875, the site where Crazy Horse and his followers camped following his surrender at Camp Robinson in 1877, and Whitney Lake, a favorite fishing destination in the area that’s great for anglers, bird watchers, photographers, and afternoon picnickers. While Whitney Lake has plenty of shore to be accessed, you may want to bring along your boat, canoe or kayak – just note that if you plan to bring the latter, you’ll share the lake with motorized watercraft.
Begin your trip heading west out of Chadron on Highway 20, dubbed Crazy Horse Memorial Highway in honor of the Lakota War Chief. Follow the highway past the turn for Whitney, about 20 miles until you reach Mansfield Rd. Head north from there about 1.75 miles until it intersects with Old Highway 20. Go East on Old Highway 20 for just under 1.5 miles to arrive at a monument honoring the site of The Council Tree, or Treaty Tree, as it is sometimes called. Further east on the road you’ll find a Nebraska State Historical Marker honoring the same site.
In September of 1875, just south of this monument, the Allison Commission met with Native Americans to discuss the potential sale of the Black Hills. An influx of whites looking to strike it rich from gold in the Black Hills threatened war. The Black Hills, among the most sacred of Native American lands, had been rightfully and legally allotted to the Sioux through the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868, which the gold seekers violated.
In 1875, Oglala Chief Red Cloud and Brule Chief Spotted Tail made a journey to meet with President Ulysses S. Grant in Washington D.C. but would not speak for their people regarding the fate of the Black Hills. Thus, Senator William Boyd Allison, of Iowa, was chosen to lead a commission to visit with the tribes near Red Cloud Agency and secure the sale.
The conference hosted around 20,000 Lakota, Cheyenne and Arapahoe, in this area. There was little agreement among the Native Americans regarding the sale of their land and the negotiations were contentious. Leaders like Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse refused to attend. Senator Allison’s first suggestion was that the U.S. government lease the land until such time that all the gold was removed from the hills, a proposal that was immediately rejected by the Native Americans, but both Spotted Tail and Red Cloud were amicable to selling the land in part due to their belief that they would lose it to the whites eventually – an accurate assumption.
Indian Agents at the meeting suggested a fair price for the land could be as much as $50 million, which added to the governments difficulty in negotiating the sale. Red Cloud countered the government offer to lease the land by asking that his people be taken care of for seven generations following the sale. Eventually the commissioners made a final offer – they’d lease the land for $400,000 per year or purchase it for $6 million. The offer was refused, and the council adjourned.
In the wake of the failed purchase attempt, President Grant determined the U.S. military would no longer attempt to stop the unlawful trespass of whites into the Black Hills. This decision, and another that required the Northern bands to be relocated to the agencies, put the government and Natives back onto the path of war. About nine months later, Custer would be defeated and killed in battle near the Little Bighorn River by Sitting Bull, Crazy Horse, and their followers. Despite the victory, the Natives eventually lost the Black Hills. The U.S. Supreme Court would rule in the late 70s and 80s that the land was taken illegally from the Sioux.
When you’re ready to move on from the monument, travel about a quarter-of-a-mile east on Old Highway 20 and turn North on Whitney Lake Road. Traveling north you’ll cross the White River, an important body of water that provides a foundation for much of the region’s early history. About a mile-and-a-half farther you’ll cross Little Cottonwood Creek, but before you do, you may want to stop briefly to admire your surroundings. You won’t find a sign marking it, but this area between the river and the creek is where Crazy Horse and his 1,100 followers made their camp after surrendering at Camp Robinson on May 6, 1877.
Crazy Horse was a revered Lakota leader and an accomplished warrior who had spent several years prior to surrendering living as traditionally as was still possible in the north. But Crazy Horse was no stranger to what would become the panhandle of Nebraska. His family was known to camp in Beaver Valley north of modern-day Hay Springs, Nebraska, and the warrior is famously reported to have taken his first vision quest atop what is now known as Scotts Bluff. His band did business with area traders for weapons and goods, and once it was established, visited Red Cloud Agency near Camp Robinson for rations and supplies.
Crazy Horse would spend his last days in this area before fleeing to Spotted Tail Agency in Beaver Valley when word got out that he was to be detained at Camp Robinson. At Spotted Tail, Crazy Horse was convinced to go peacefully to Camp Robinson to speak to its commander. Once at Camp Robinson, instead of being led to the commander’s office, Crazy Horse was escorted to the guardhouse. Upon realizing the building he had entered was a jail, Crazy Horse attempted to break loose from his escort. He drew a knife and struggled with Oglala Little Big Man, a warrior who had fought alongside Crazy Horse in the past. The scuffle made its way outside of the guardhouse, Crazy Horse cut Little Big Man’s wrist and broke away, but with many fellow natives and soldiers looking on, a white soldier plunged his bayonet into the side of the great warrior. Crazy Horse died that night in the nearby Camp Robinson adjutant’s office.
The area of Crazy Horse’s camp is now on private property but can be admired by the roadside.
Leaving this area to the north you’ll approach the western end of Whitney Lake, a man-made reservoir intended to help provide irrigation in the area. In addition to providing great fishing, the area around the lake provides a fantastic habitat for many area bird species. Owls, Golden and Bald Eagles and other raptors also call the area home. Deer and antelope are often seen in the surrounding fields. Under the milky water, caused by a silty bottom, you’ll find largemouth bass, black and white crappie, walleye, bluegill, white bass, yellow perch, northern pike and channel catfish. In the summer, the lake is a popular boating area and in the winter is a great ice-fishing destination. An ice-fishing tournament is held on the lake annually.
It’s a great place to stop and grab a snack, stretch your legs along your tour, or stay a while and fish. A dock and parking area can be found on the northeastern side of the lake. Once you’ve reached the north side and are heading west along Whitney Lake Road, head south on Bergfield Road to reach North Shore Drive which will take you east along the lake to a parking area and dock. If timed right, Whitney Lake is a great place to photograph, or sit and enjoy, the sunset. Once you’re satisfied with your time at the lake, continue heading east on North Shore Drive as it takes you away from the lake and into the town of Whitney. The village of Whitney, which lies along the route of a former stage trail from Valentine to Fort Robinson, was first named Earth Lodge in 1884, was renamed Dawes City in 1885, and eventually found its current name in 1886, honoring railroad official Peter Whitney. It officially became a village in 1888. Road P25 going south will take you out of Whitney. About 1,000 feet after turning south, head southwest on Old Highway 20 as it hooks to the southwest and becomes Whitney Spur Road. Take this road south until you reach Highway 20, completing your tour.
From here you can head back to Chadron for more adventures. This route can also be taken in reverse if it’s the adventurer’s preference. Be sure to check out the rest of our webpage for dining, lodging and other activities in the nearby towns of Chadron and Crawford.