fossil freeway
MAP: Fossil Freeway Bucket List
Thinking of Northwest Nebraska’s past typically conjures images of dusty homesteaders ranching in the Pine Ridge, burly fur traders trading goods along the White River, and regal Lakota hunting buffalo on the plains. But long before the region’s Wild West history, millions of years ago, mammoths, saber-toothed cats and other prehistoric beasts roamed the area.
Established in 2009, the Fossil Freeway takes adventurers to seven sites between Interstates 80 and 90 where evidence of the magnificent prehistoric beasts remains. The “freeway” begins in Kimball to the south and in Hot Springs, South Dakota, to the north, and includes four sites in Dawes and Sioux Counties. This bucket list will take you on an exciting adventure to all four sites and offers ample opportunity for sightseeing, hiking, biking, camping, stargazing and more. This bucket list can be completed in a single day, if desired.
Beginning from Chadron, head west out of town along Highway 20 toward Crawford. You’ll drive about 30 miles before reaching a dog-leg junction with Highway 71. Turn west and follow the highway north about 4.5 miles before turning west on Toadstool Road. Follow Toadstool Road as it turns north and continue for about 12 miles before again turning west toward Toadstool Geological Park.
Toadstool Geological Park was named for its unique rock formations – giant, narrow clay pedestals topped with slabs of sandstone that resemble toadstool mushrooms. Many of the rocks preserve fossils and footprints of extinct species like tortoises, rhinos, saber-toothed cats, early three-toed horses, camels and lizards. Hikers frequently comment that the colorful, odd-shaped formations have a “moonscape” appearance.
A one-mile loop trail guides visitors along many of the incredible formations. Interpretive brochures detailing the fascinating geology and paleontology are available at the trailhead. Nearby, a reconstructed sod house offers visitors a glimpse into the life of an early homesteader on the prairie.
The park offers several opportunities for photography, hiking and is an excellent location for stargazing if you choose to stay overnight at the park’s campground. Be sure to pack plenty of water as the campground has none available.
The next destination along the Fossil Freeway is the Hudson-Meng Research and Education Center where you’ll find a 10,000-year-old bison bonebed being excavated. The center is a short drive from Toadstool Geological Park, but hikers may want to make the trip on foot, taking advantage of the three-mile Bison Trail which connects the two locations.
If driving, head back to Toadstool Road and backtrack south about 4 miles until you reach Sandcreek Road where you’ll turn west. Keep north on Sandcreek Road for about 6 miles and turn north to Hudson-Meng where signage indicates.
In 1954, while attempting to dig a stock pond, Nebraska ranchers Bill Hudson and Albert Meng uncovered a large pile of bones. During the 1970s, Dr. Larry Agenbroad of Chadron State College began excavating the site believed to be the bonebed of nearly 600 ancient bison. Considered to be one of the most important archaeological discoveries in North America, the Hudson-Meng site has been enrolled in the National Register of Historic Places.
Scientists and student excavators have been working with the Forest Service for decades to try to understand the exact nature of this mass kill site and the role that ancient Paleo-Indian people may have played. In 1997, a climate-controlled enclosure was completed to cover the central portion of the bonebed.
After enjoying the wonders and mystery of Hudson-Meng, travel east along Sandcreek Road back to Toadstool Road and again backtrack south. Turn south on Highway 71 and travel about 4 miles before again turning south to connect with Highway 20. You’ll be traveling toward the town of Crawford which provides a great location to stop for lunch. Continue south on turn west at the junction of Highways 20 and 71 toward the legendary Fort Robinson.
At 22,000 acres, Fort Robinson State Park is the largest in Nebraska. Formerly an active military post, the fort is now a popular destination for outdoor, recreational enthusiasts and history buffs. Fort Robinson played an important role in the early history of settlers in Northwest Nebraska and is steeped in a sometimes-tumultuous history. Legendary Lakota warrior Crazy Horse was killed on its parade grounds and it was a key location during the Cheyenne Breakout. It was once called home by the famous Buffalo Soldiers, black cavalry soldiers who were considered some of the world’s best riders. Its first post commander was General Arthur MacArthur, father to General Douglas MacArthur and Dr. Walter Reed, namesake of Walter Reed Hospital, once practiced there. Later in its history it served as the largest remount in the world where horses were trained for military duty across the nation. During World War II the fort housed German P.O.W.s of the famed Afrika Corps before eventually being abandoned by the army in 1947.
Most notably, for the purposes of this road trip, is the Trailside Museum of Natural History, housed in the fort. The museum features one of the most unique exhibits in the nation – The Clash of the Titans. In 1962 in the badlands north of Crawford, Nebraska, two men happened upon a portion of a femur jutting out from a bank of earth. The two men said they knew they’d found something big, but had no idea they’d just discovered something no one else ever had and likely no one else ever will.
The fossil remains the men found, and which are now on display at the Trailside Museum, are that of two massive mammoths, locked together by the tusks, trapped in a battle that ended with the two behemoths dying, still entangled where they lay.
The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in April, May, September and October. Summer hours, which run from Memorial Day to Labor Day, are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. The museum is closed from November through March, except by appointment.
Continuing along the Fossil Freeway, head west out of Fort Robinson State Park on Highway 20. Continue on the highway for about 22 miles until you reach the village of Harrison.
Harrison has its origin in 1884 as a railroad camp named Summit for its high elevation relative to much of the surrounding area. When the famous Cowboy Line railway made its way in 1886, Summit became an unincorporated township named Bowen, which lasted until 1887 when the name was changed to Harrison. The next year, Harrison became an incorporated town.
To this day Harrison is still the only incorporated town in sizable Sioux County.
Head south on Highway 29 toward your next destination – Agate Fossil Beds National Monument. You’ll travel about 20 miles on Highway 29 before turning east on River Road toward the monument.
Nineteen million years ago, strange creatures roamed the savanna that is now western Nebraska. The ancient mammals included tiny, two-horned rhinoceros, the Moropus – a horse/giraffe/tapir/rhinoceros/bear-like creature and the ferocious seven-foot-tall large-tusked pig.
Though well-known for decades by the Lakota, the first fossils here were discovered by Captain James H. Cook in 1878. Cook, and his son Harold, developed a headquarters at Agate Springs Ranch for fellow paleontologists. Skulls and complete skeletons were found in the early 1900s, many of which were housed at the Carnegie Museum and the American Museum of Natural History.
Over the years, Cook and his family fostered friendships with Chief Red Cloud and other members of the Oglala Lakota Sioux. During their visits, the parties would exchange gifts which Cook decided should remain with the ranch. The National Park Service Visitor Center houses a room of collectables, such as buckskin suits, gloves, one of Red Cloud’s shirts, pipebags and whetstones. Historic photographs accompany several of the artifacts.
The visitor center and museum is open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. during the off-season and from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer season.
NOTE : THE VISITORS CENTER AT HUDSON-MENG IS CURRENTLY CLOSED, BUT THE INTERPRETIVE OUTDOOR TRAILS ARE STILL AVAILABLE. CONTACT 432-0300 FOR UPDATED INFO REGARDING THE SITE’S OPENING.
NOTE: Toadstool Road is unpaved and can be difficult to traverse during or after significant rainfall.