Crow Butte to Ponderosa road trip
Discover Northwest Nebraska’s Crow Butte – Ponderosa Road Trip explores the Ponderosa Wildlife Management Area and offers adventurers the chance to admire a prominent Native American landmark and other great sites. This trip is 28 miles long.
Activities available along the way include photography, camping, hiking, birding, hunting, wildlife viewing and more. Those who plan to leave the comfort of their vehicles and explore the WMA on foot will want to be sure they are well equipped. Water availability is sparse along the hiking trails and the terrain can be technical. Ponderosa WMA is also a popular hunting location and hikers may want to wear hunter orange while exploring. Those wanting to stay and hunt the area should be sure they have the proper licenses and are following all applicable laws.
The 4,000–acre WMA offers the possibility of viewing multiple species of wildlife. Bighorn sheep, elk, coyote, mountain lions, porcupine, skunks, deer and wild turkey can be found in the area. In the skies, many bird species call the area home including Eagles and hawks soaring above the cliffs.
You’ll begin your trip east of Crawford, Nebraska, on Highway 71. Turn east on West Ash Creek Road which you’ll follow for about half of this adventure. As you drive, you’ll see Crow Butte to the southeast and about 2.5 miles from your turn onto West Ash you’ll come to a parking area for the Ponderosa WMA. From there you can get a great look at Crow Butte to the south.
One of the most well-known buttes in the Pine Ridge, Crow Butte, got its name from an 1849 battle between Crow and Brule warriors. Several differing stories are told of the battle, but at its most simple, a group of Crow warriors arrived in the region from Montana with a plan to steal horses from the rival Brule. Instead, they found a herd belonging to a trader named James Bordeaux. The Crow took Bordeaux’s herd and burned his trading post, leading the Bordeaux family to seek safety with Brule Chief Grabbing Bear.
The Brule took after the Crow whose exit was slowed by having to manage the herd. To combat the problem, the Crow split up, leaving a group of warriors to provide a rearguard action for the rest of the group. The action worked, delaying the Brule enough that the group with the herd was able to make it to safety. But the rearguard was forced to abandon their horses at the base of what is now Crow Butte and climb to safety at the top. From their high ground the Crow were able to hold off the Brule. In response, the Brule settled in and camped at the base where they were taunted by the Crow above them through the night.
A tactical error left the south face of the butte unguarded – the Brule believed it to be too steep to provide a route to safety. After three days of waiting out the “trapped” Crow at the top of the Butte, the Brule climbed to the top, they could no longer hear any of the Crow. At the top they found rope made of rawhide that had allowed the Crow to escape down the sheer face of the butte to the south. The body of just one Crow remained atop the butte, the only casualty of the encounter.
When you’re ready to move on, head east again on West Ash Creek Road which will continue east for about another 2.5 miles before it begins to head south into the pines. Before you get into the valley, you’ll encounter the Wanda Highway monument. This is another point of interest along the route that has multiple origin stories. The more accurate story details that while grading Ash Creek Road in 1923, the remains of a Native American woman were uncovered. Nearby residents built a coffin and reburied the remains along the road. The burial ceremony included erecting a gravestone on the site. This original gravestone toppled due to erosion and the “Wanda Highway” marker that now exists was moved to the east side of the road in 1959. The grave remains to the west.
Continue from the “Wanda Highway” marker along West Ash Creek Road to the south. In just over two miles you’ll reach the West Ash Picnic Area, a great area along the trip to sit for a while in the shade of the valley and maybe grab a bite to eat from the supplies you’ve brought along. The site is also a popular place to camp in the area due to its seclusion and proximity to West Ash Creek which flows to the southwest of the picnic area. A quarter mile south of the picnic area along the road is the West Ash Trailhead which makes up a portion of the Pine Ridge Trail. Heading east, the trail goes 5.7 miles to the East Ash Trailhead, it’s closest notable stop, and extends beyond to Roberts Campground at about 16 miles and finally to Coffee Mill Trailhead at about the 20-mile mark.
After some rest, or a hike, continue driving south through the canyon, enjoying the scenic drive until the road intersects with Table Road to the southeast, just over three miles from the picnic area. From here, turn right, or southwest on Table Road. In about two miles, look to the southwest to a pine-covered mound jutting from the prairie. This is Squaw Mound, the highest point on the Pine Ridge escarpment. Continuing west, keep right on table road at its intersection with Squaw Mound Road. Table Road has now turned to Squaw Creek Road as it turns to head northwest.
Enjoy the sights of the Pine Ridge and keep an eye out for wildlife and areas throughout the rest of the drive where you can park and take advantage of what Ponderosa WMA has to offer. Look for a herd of bison in the area, but don’t get too close. To begin the last leg of your trip, continue northwest on Squaw Creek Road until you exit the pines and enter back into the plains as the road heads direct west. In this area, keep your eye out for a unique site. What appears to be several barrels littered throughout the fields are actually part of the Crow Butte Uranium Mine. Continue past the mine to the intersection with Highway 71. Head north to reach Crawford or continue on to Chadron. At either destination you’ll find great opportunities for dining and lodging. For details on where to stay and what to eat, check out those areas on our website.